Posted by: Vida London | April 30, 2012

Globe Theatre, London: Shakespeare in Spanish

Globe to Globe Shakespeare festival

Globe to Globe Shakespeare festival features three plays in Spanish. Image: Globe Theatre

The Globe Theatre in London will be staging three Shakespeare plays in Spanish as part of its Globe to Globe season of 37 plays in 37 Languages.

The event forms part of the Cultural Olympiad, an arts festival that ties in with the London 2012 Olympics.

The plays in Spanish are:

Henry IV Part 1 in ‘Mexican Spanish’, Mon 14 & Tues 15 May

Henry IV Part 2 in ‘Argentine Spanish’, Tues 15 & Weds 16 May

Henry VIII in ‘Castilian Spanish’, Tues 29 & Weds 30 May

The three companies performing in Spanish are Teatro Nacional de México of Mexico City, Elkafka Espacio Teatral of Buenos Aires, and Rakata, of Madrid.

“Many of the world’s greatest directors, over six hundred actors from all nations, and audiences from every corner of our polyglot community, will assemble to celebrate the stories, the characters and the relationships, which are etched into all of us,” the festival’s directors say on the Globe website.

If nothing else, the three plays give Spanish learners a chance to test their comprehension against three rather different dialects! A(nother) reason to be grateful for the Olympics then, if you’re not entirely excited about a lot of running and jumping, hype, and traffic jams…

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Posted by: Vida London | April 23, 2012

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires: City of the Dead

Recoleta Cemetery

Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires. Image: Katy Salter

It costs a lot of money to have a good death in Buenos Aires.

If you’re lucky enough, and rich enough, or hail from one of the city’s great families, you might just nab yourself a spot in Recoleta Cemetery, one of the world’s great necropoli/necropoleis/necropoles.

Mausoleum in Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires

Mausoleum in Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires. Image: Katy Salter

Occupying a huge city block in the well-heeled neighbourhood of Recoleta, opposite a very swish, first-world shopping centre, the cemetery is home to the great and good of Buenos Aires’s past.

The streets of Recoleta Cemetery

The streets of Recoleta Cemetery. Image: Jon Yeomans

I’m something of a fan of cities-within-cities, and Recoleta Cemetery fits this model. Rigid streets of mausoleums line up grid-fashion, echoing the ordered roads of the living city beyond the walls. At the end of each road you can see the balconies of the barrio’s smart apartment buildings rising above you.

Ancient tomb, Recoleta Cemetery

Ancient tomb, Recoleta Cemetery. Image: Jon Yeomans

Tombs of all shapes and sizes can be found here: from crumbling classical structures that could be thousands of years old to pyramids, baroque statues and even life-size replicas of the dearly departed in their bathrobes.

Statue in Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires

Eternity in your bathrobe? Don't mind if I do. Image: Jon Yeomans

The cemetery is a definite landmark in a city that is curiously short on them; Buenos Aires strikes me as a city of neighbourhoods rather than sights per se. The cemetery, however, is a firm stop on the tourist trail. Tour groups are bussed to the gates and then led along a well-trod path by guides with umbrellas and yellow flags.

Pyramid tomb on Recoleta Cemetery

"Here lies ash, dust, nada." Image: Jon Yeomans

The beaten track in Recoleta Cemetery leads, inevitably, to its most famous resident: Evita. María Eva Duarte de Perón, former first lady of Argentina, rests in a black marble tomb adorned with flowers, flags and stickers. This well-snapped doorway doesn’t tell you much about this rather enigmatic woman, whose burial in the cemetery was resisted for many years by the more snobbish sections of Porteño society.

Evita's tomb in Recoleta

Evita's tomb in Recoleta. Image: Katy Salter

The cemetery’s history stretches back a considerable way. It opened in 1822, on the grounds of a former monastery. The space takes up 5.5 hectares (14 acres) and contains 4,691 vaults. Presidents, doctors, lawyers, generals, writers, artists, politicians and even the odd journo are buried here, rubbing shoulders for all eternity.

Plaque in Recoleta Cemetery

The great and the good are buried in Recoleta Cemetery. Image: Jon Yeomans

You can shake off the tour groups easily enough, and there are corners of the cemetery rarely visited, such is its scale. The elegance and expense of all these mausoleums is arresting; it says a lot about rich Porteños down the years and how they saw themselves.

Recoleta Cemetery

The main boulevard of Recoleta Cemetery. Image: Jon Yeomans

The cemetery may not tell you much about philosophy or relgion or the afterlife, but it does tell you a lot about fashion: about how it has always been the done thing to be buried in Recoleta, for its cachet, and how it doesn’t pay to be seen (literally) dead anywhere else. When and why did this ultimately pointless fashion start? How many people nearly bankrupted themselves or spent the kids’ inheritance to get here?

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires

Recoleta Cemetery, Buenos Aires. Image: Jon Yeomans

It’s a weird, soothing place, and the sun is very hot when it bounces off the marble tombs and flagstoned streets. Recoleta Cemetery reminded me of Pompeii or Ephesus, a throwback to ancient times, in a thoroughly modern city.

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London Argentine Film Festival 2012

London Argentine Film Festival 2012 will be showing Caprichosos de San Telmo. Image: LAFF

Film lovers — another date for your diary.

London’s first Argentine Film Festival runs at The Ritzy cinema in Brixton from 20-22 April. There will be eight award-winning films on display, plus four shorts from Argentina’s little-known (well, little-known over here, certainly) silent era.

The highlight film is likely to be Chinese Take Away (Un cuento chino) starring Ricardo Darin (The Secret In Their Eyes).

“All of the films have received international recognition and awards, but they also tell universal stories that any Londoner can relate to, be they English or Spanish-speakers,” says Sofia Serbin de Skalon, the Festival’s director and founder.

Perhaps capitalising on the success of The Artist, the four shorts in the programme date from the 1920s and offer “a captivating snapshot of Argentine life at the beginning of the 20th century”.

“We are truly delighted to host London’s first Argentine Film Festival,” says Clare Binns of Picturehouse Cinemas. “Argentina is producing some fantastic films, and the Ritzy, with its long-standing history of alternative programming and its community spirit, is the perfect venue for this festival.”

I’ll definitely try and get along to some of these – but what a shame it coincides exactly with the London Spanish Film Festival Spring Weekend in South Ken. London’s big enough to host all these different festivals – but a little co-ordination wouldn’t go amiss!

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Posted by: Vida London | March 29, 2012

London Spanish Film Festival: Spring Weekend 2012

London Spanish Film Festival Spring Weekend 2012

London Spanish Film Festival Spring Weekend 2012 will be showing La Chispa de la Vida. Image: LSFF

London’s annual Spanish film festival is back with its second Spring weekender.

The main festival takes place in September (it’s the 8th edition this year), but if you can’t wait that long, they’ve just announced the programme for this year’s taster event.

The 2nd Spring Weekend takes place 20-22 April at Cine Lumiere in South Kensington. There are seven recent films on offer, plus an event featuring Spanish director Carlos Saura.

From the website:

We once again bring to London audiences a Spring Weekend packed with recent Spanish productions, including Alex de la Iglesia’s latest film La chispa de la vida, the winner of the Goya Award for Best Animation Arrugas, the timely and poignant Cinco metros cuadrados, and a preview screening of Dominik Moll’s The Monk featuring a Franco-Spanish cast. David Trueba will visit us to present Madrid, 1987 and filmmaker Alberto Morais will talk to us about his film Las olas.

The festival programme can be found here. The festival director is Joana Granero Sanchez, who spoke to Vida London last year.

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Posted by: Vida London | March 25, 2012

Ghosts of Spain by Giles Tremlett: 2nd Edition

Ghosts of Spain by Giles Tremlett

Ghosts of Spain by Giles Tremlett: 2nd Edition updates the story of Modern Spain.

A new edition of Giles Tremlett’s Ghosts of Spain is out this April from Faber.

Tremlett, The Guardian’s Madrid correspondent, has lived in Spain for almost 20 years. His second book took a sympathetic look at Catherine of Aragon (Henry VIII’s Spanish Queen); now he’s back with a long-awaited update to his first book, Ghosts of Spain, originally published in 2006.

There’s a lot of history to catch up on in the six years or more since Tremlett researched his book. It’s worth stating up front, as he does, that this new edition is not a complete rewrite; instead it comes wrapped with a new prologue and an extra chapter recounting the roller-coaster ride of Spain’s recent history.

Travels through modern Spain

The meat of the book remains the same: Tremlett’s starting point is the unearthing of Civil War-era graves in the early 2000s and the soul-searching that followed. He delves into modern-day Francoism and the pact of olvido – the silence, or forgetting, that allowed Spain to move into democracy in the 70s and 80s without bloodshed.

From there, Ghosts of Spain cartwheels through modern Spain, probing each social, racial and regional flashpoint: from corruption on the Costas and the rise of Benidorm to ETA, drug smuggling in Galicia, prostitution, the Church, and child-rearing.

It’s a dazzling, informative journey, and Tremlett isn’t afraid to poke his nose into Spain’s unpleasant underbelly. His chapter on flamenco and Gypsies in the no-go areas of Seville is particularly eye-opening.

The Fiesta Is Over

The new chapter in this edition says much with just its title: The Fiesta Is Over. Tremlett pulls together the themes of the book and fill us in on the changes that have wracked Spain in the decade since he started writing Ghosts of Spain.

Giles Tremlett

Giles Tremlett. Image courtesy Faber & Faber.

He begins with a rather depressing coda to the story of Civil War graves in the pueblo of Poyales, covered at the start of the book. From there it’s a short step to the re-emergence of the ‘Two Spains’ and the bitter divisions riven by the 11-M terrorist attack that killed 191 people in 2004.

The fallout from the trial of the surviving plotters is intertwined with the story of Judge Baltasar Garzon (Pinochet’s nemesis) and his efforts to introduce a law on historical memory that would pave the way for investigations into the disappearances of the Franco era.

Tremlett reflects on the huge wave of immigration since the 1990s. Immigrants have jumped from two percent of the population to 12 percent today; more than five million people. There has been a corresponding rise in the number of local laws prohibiting burqas. “At this rate we will end up with more bans than burqas,” Tremlett quotes the former immigration minister saying.

“Measures we proposed three or four years ago that were greeted with cries of ‘racism’ are now being passed by town halls,” a town councillor adds. Tremlett sees Spain in real danger of falling into the age-old trap of racism, marring some of the liberal, social strides it has made under recently departed socialist prime minister José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero.

“If there is one thing Spaniards have proven over the past four decades, it’s their ability to ride change”

Unsurprisingly, it’s Zapatero’s handling of the economy that comes in for most criticism. Tremlett’s study of the causes of the financial crisis in Spain includes both obvious and unexpected culprits. Cheap credit and a wild building boom are clear targets; but he also takes a swipe at Spain’s “untouchable” teachers, who have helped protect a failing education system that leaves most school leavers unprepared to find a skilled job. You take away unskilled jobs, and you get an unemployment epidemic, the likes of which led thousands of young protesters to camp out in Madrid’s Puerto del Sol last year.

Yet Tremlett finds reasons to be optimistic about Spain – and not just in the national side’s World Cup success. Spain is his adoptive country and his children have grown up as Spaniards, so it’s not surprising he wants to accentuate the positive. “If there is one thing Spaniards have proven over the past four decades, it’s their ability to ride change,” he says.

I’ve pressed the first edition of Ghosts of Spain into the hands of friends and family plenty of times over the last few years; this update makes it even more essential reading. If you want to know anything modern Spain, read this book.

Ghosts of Spain is out on 5 April price £9.99 (£8.99 ebook).

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Posted by: Vida London | March 16, 2012

M&S to launch ‘España’ Spanish ready meals

M&S paella

M&S is launching a Spanish food range. Image: M&S

Spanish food lovers rejoice! Sort of.

A new range of Spanish-inspired ready meals is coming to the UK high street — but it’s not just any range, it’s an M&S range.

That’s right: Marks & Spencer is launching its España selection of Spanish main courses in April. There are 11 dishes in the range, from seafood paella (£7.99, 750g) to chicken with patatas bravas and garlic alioli (£6.99, 700g), braised pork with cannellini beans and migas (£7.49, 700g), and beef estofado (£7.49, 760g).

There are also side dishes in the form of layered vegetable tumblet (£3.99) and piquillo pepper and tomato bread (£1.99).

“We’ve raided the Spanish larder to create this vibrant range, full of the simple yet bold flavours that the country is famous for,” says the M&S release. “From olives and hams to vinegars and sherries, all the ingredients are authentic, so the taste is too.”

M&S Espana ready meals

Tempted? The Espana range is out in April. Image: M&S

I know that Sainsbury’s has offered a paella ready meal for a while, but M&S clearly thinks it’s on to a winner by expanding the range. Supermarkets have reported seeing Spanish food sales overtake Italian in 2011, so perhaps now is the time to cash in.

I haven’t tried M&S’s dishes yet, of course, but I look forward to popping their plastic films with a fork and flinging them into a microwave some time soon. Or maybe I’ll just have another go at making the real thing:

Jon's paella

Yes, I made a paella for the first time last week. It was gooood. Image: ksalty

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Posted by: Vida London | March 9, 2012

Learning Spanish: The 8 Hardest Aspects for Beginners

Spanish dictionary

A beginner's best friend: a Spanish-English dictionary. Image: ::d::/Flickr

Spanish is a marvellous, satisfying language — once you get to grips with it.

Everyone has their own, particular struggles with a new language, but it’s also good to know you’re in the same boat as many others.

This guest post is by Will Peach, who is currently living in Granada, Spain and learning Spanish, and is well placed to reflect on the difficulties of grappling with Spanish as a beginner:

Learning a new language comes with a whole host of challenges. Not being born into it is usually where the problems start for a learner. Spanish, on the other hand, is one of those languages described by students as “relatively easy” to pick up. Yet is there any truth to that?

Identifying and appreciating the challenges of Spanish are the only way we can answer this question. Mastery? Not quite! Here’s a list 8 things that have stood – and still continue to stand — in my way.

Spanish is one of those languages described by students as ’relatively easy’ to pick up. Yet is there any truth to that?

Nouns

If you view Spanish nouns purely in terms of gender, either male or female, you’re likely to screw up. Native English language speakers aren’t likely to get these ‘categorisations’ at first and it certainly takes some practice. Yet there is a trick to distinguish masculine from feminine. Remember that, for the most part, the feminine nouns end in ‘a’ and you’ll generally be fine!

Frustration

Pronunciation in Spanish can be tricky. Image: AdamNF/Flickr

Articles

The articles el and la help identify the gender of the noun. But learners must also learn that the termination of the words in either ‘o’ for masculine and ‘a’ for feminine does not always apply. For instance, the noun ‘hand’, la mano, is feminine, yet it ends in an ‘o’. Likewise there are nouns like ‘day’, el dia, which is masculine yet ends in ‘a’.

Pronunciation

The other great source of difficulty for native English speakers learning Spanish arises from the pronunciation. Spanish is littered with sounds that can be quite challenging for learners, especially sounds like ‘J’, commonly known as jota, and the rolled ‘R’ sounds. It’s hard to believe that intricate details like the positioning of the tongue matter when pronouncing the words, yet they really do!

Intonation

Another difficulty as far as pronunciation is concerned is intonation. Spanish has a highly regular intonation of words, something that English speakers are likely to struggle with. Do yourself a favour and try and leave out English intonations when using Spanish words.

Old men in Spain

Register is important in Spanish when talking to the old folks. Image: Greg Robbins/Flickr

Verbs

Spanish verbs can create a great deal of difficulty. As ‘to be’ has two verbs: ser and estar, this often leads to non-natives running for the hills. Without a proper understanding of the use of both, the learner will undoubtedly make grammatical mistakes. Remember that ser is used to refer to the permanent state of being and estar for the temporary state of objects and their physical location, and you can’t go far wrong. An in-depth understanding of these two verbs comes with time so have patience!

Register

When a situation calls for politeness in Spanish difficulties might arise. You have to consider the age factor of the person you’re addressing to try and prevent this. The verb form tu is regarded as informal and therefore can be used when addressing peers or younger people. The form usted, howeveris used in formal settings and especially when addressing older people. This form of courtesy needn’t be so crucial but it’s nice to know.

Will Peach in Granada

Will Peach in Granada, about to inflict some Spanish on the locals. Image: Will Peach

Conjugation

The conjugation of verbs in Spanish is vastly different from that in English. Spanish verbs can be used with different endings, with some object pronouns switching from front to back almost seamlessly. The type of ending of a verb is heavily dependent on factors such as the mood of the person, the tense and the subject of the action. Mastering Spanish conjugation patterns takes a good bit of time to master.

Pronouns

Other linguistic modifiers like pronouns can also cause quite the headache. Verbs in a statement usually give hints on the best pronoun to use in the sentence. However, Spanish often dispenses with subject pronouns altogether, so watch out!

Spanish is derived in a large part from Latin. It is a Romance language just like Italian and Portuguese and is similar to both. Thanks to English borrowing heavily from Latin, keen learners will easily be able to pick out words and similarities between the two languages. Just remember that everyone makes mistakes and the most important thing is to keep going!

Will Peach is the site editor at GapDaemon.com, a gap year travel site for young independent travellers. He also heads up a Spain travel blog and TravelSexLife.com, a site dedicated to love and sex abroad. He currently lives in Granada, Spain.

Image credits: ::d::, AdamNF, Greg Robbins

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Posted by: Vida London | March 3, 2012

Women_Mujeres Film Festival kicks off 8 March

W_M film festival poster

The Women_Mujeres film festival starts on 8 March. Image: W_M/Zoe López

There’s a new Spanish film festival on the block: the Women_Mujeres Festival explores the situation of women in Spain since the Franco era.

The inaugural festival kicks off on Thursday 8 March (International Women’s Day) and runs until 11 March. The venues are the Roxy on Borough High Street and Blackall Studios in Shoreditch.

Each Spanish film will be accompanied by a short film from the UK and a Q&A session with the people involved. I caught up with the festival’s director Lydia Freixes to find out more:

How did you come up with the idea for the festival?

I founded Women_Mujeres Spanish Film Festival last November. Since then, I have been developing the idea and giving the project all the necessary to become not only real, but interesting and the unique kind of event that people want to be part of it.

How did you choose the films in the programme?

I picked them as they are recent and allowed me and the collaborators who will participate to talk about the different situations of women in Spain 35 years after the end of Franco’s dictatorship.

All these seven movies will show to the audience that there is still a lot of stuff to get done in the parity field in Spain. The point of view changes in each film. From Thursday the 8th to Saturday the 10th, movies chosen are all made in a realistic way. On Sunday Closing Night, we will have the opportunity to enjoy two different, excellent art house visual movies: Woman Without Piano (Mujer sin Piano) and Three days with the family (Tres dies amb la família), the only one in Catalan with English subtitles.

Tres dias amb la familia

Tres dias amb la familia is showing at the W_M Festival. Image: Escandalo Films

Why did you decide to pair the films with shorts from the UK?

Last January I had the opportunity to collaborate with the London Short Film Festival. I watched some astounding feminine shorts and with the producer of W_M, Alberto Bañares, we thought that linking the situation of Spanish women with the rest of the world, especially with Britain, would be a good idea to make the Festival richer.

What are the highlights of the festival for you?

I look forward to enjoying all the sessions! Because all of them are being matched to their most convenient cine forum and Q&A to achieve not only a single screening but a whole inspirational cinematic and social experience to remember. However, maybe the Closing Night on 11th March would be our “main course”, as both movies on the programme haven’t been released in UK.

What is your background?

I used to live in Barcelona but I moved to London recently. The rich life of arts & culture has drawn me back to London a number of times and has finally resulted in my decision to emigrate to London and explore its cinematic opportunities.

I am trilingual in Spanish, Catalan and French with a background in public relations and marketing. I also have a postgraduate in communication and have worked a number of years as a freelance audiovisual producer.

In my last job I managed an art house cinema in Barcelona for a year and a half where I had the opportunity to create festivals such as Casa Asia Film Week (CAFW June 2011) and collaborate with the Drac Màgic International Women Filmmakers Festival.

For more about the W_M Festival, see the group’s website. The full programme can be found here, with information on the venues here.

Follow @WomenMujeres on Twitter and get updates on the W_M Facebook page.

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Posted by: Vida London | February 28, 2012

Ceviche Peruvian restaurant opens in Soho

Ceviche restaurant Soho

Ceviche restaurant has opened in Soho. Image: Vida London

London’s first authentic Peruvian restaurant, Ceviche, throws open its doors this week after more than a year of preparation.

Restaurateur Martin Morales, a successful DJ and former Apple exec, has poured a huge amount of time and money into his dream of bringing a slice of Lima to London — even selling his house along the way.

“After two years of hard work, pop ups, supper clubs, trails, aches and pains and a lifetime of dreaming this, we are now open and serving fantastic authentic Peruvian cuisine and drinks in London,” Martin told me this week.

“Ceviche is a family of people bringing you the soul of Peru. We are so excited to be open in Soho and can’t wait to serve you.”

For the uninitiated, ceviche is a dish of raw fish marinated in citrus juices. Ceviche the restaurant offers a sharing menu (PDF) of seafood, from seabass ceviche to chacalon (ceviche of button mushrooms in lime tiger’s milk and aji limo chilli), sakura maru (thinly sliced, marinated salmon), and pulpo al olivo (braised octopus).

Ceviche pisco bar

Ceviche's pisco bar serves up cocktails. Image: Vida London/ksalty

There are also grilled skewers, including beef, chicken, salmon and octopus, and an array of classic Peruvian numbers: from wok-cooked chicken to mixed seafood rice. Dishes range from £5-£10.

Ceviche

Ceviche is the house speciality. Image: Paul Winch-Furness

Vida London got a preview of the restaurant yesterday, ideally located on Frith Street slap bang in the middle of Soho. One of the big selling points is sure to be the long Pisco bar, serving up classic Pisco Sours alongside a range of cocktails.

Ceviche restaurant in Soho

The dining room at Ceviche. Image: Paul Winch-Furness

Every last Monday of the month the bar will host the Guinea Pig Club, a session for pisco fans that will offer samples of new drinks.

Ceviche restaurant in London

Ceviche hopes to capture the spirit of legendary Bar Juanito in Lima. Image: Paul Winch-Furness

Martin is hoping Ceviche channels some of the spirit of legendary Lima bar Juanito, which was located in the Barranco district of the city until it closed down last year.

“Lima has been voted the ‘culinary capital of the Americas’,” Martin told me in an interview last year. “It has more chef schools than any other city in the world. People are doing stopovers in Lima just for the restaurants.

“Peruvian cuisine is very rich in variety. The influence is strong from Italy, from Spain, from Africa, and also from China and Japan, so we have a ton to choose from.”

Sakura maru at Ceviche

Sakura maru is on the menu at Ceviche. Image: Paul Winch-Furness

Personally I’m looking forward to getting a table next month; booking is open now via the Ceviche website.

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Posted by: Vida London | February 23, 2012

Picasso and Modern British Art launches at Tate Britain

Picasso and Modern British Art

Picasso and Modern British Art runs at Tate Britain until 15 July. Image: Tate

A major new Picasso show has arrived in London – this time at the Tate Britain.

An old choice for a Picasso show, it might seem, as Tate Britain is of course dedicated to British art from 1500. The purpose of this exhibition is to highlight the seminal artist’s influence on British art.

From the blurb:

Picasso and Modern British Art explores his extensive legacy and influence on British art, how this played a role in the acceptance of modern art in Britain, alongside the fascinating story of Picasso’s lifelong connections to and affection for this country.

There are 150 artworks in the show, including 60 by Picasso, plus work from the likes of Henry Moore, Francis Bacon, Graham Sutherland and David Hockney. It’s obvious that here, as elsewhere, artists owed a lot to Picasso, but whether the Spaniard cared much for their interest is another matter.

Tickets are £14 and the show runs from now until 15 July. There are talks on 29 February and 5 March.

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